Bergün - Filisur - Brienz - Lenzerheide
36,4 km, 850 m ↗, 740 m ↘
The 2nd stage of the Glacier Bike Tour holds a royal finish: the Bike Kingdom Lenzerheide – Graubünden’s largest connected biking area. Yet even before entering the mountain bike monarchy, you will have collected records and landmarks.
It is not an easy start into the day on the second stage – yet it sure is exceptionally stunning: a gravel road takes you up above Bergün through the dense forest, part of Switzerland’s biggest nature parks, the Parc Ela. For all of you who are experienced trail riders and know how to handle your bike on rocks and roots, this passage will be fun. Yet, you still have to stay focused on the chunky and partly exposed terrain. Keep your fingers on the brakes. The 1km of paved street that follow sure are a contrast. Then, from Bellaluna it is all smooth gravel along the Albula river – time to relax and flow...
One detour is a must on this stage! It takes you to one of the grand landmarks of Graubünden: the Landwasser railway viaduct erected on six limestone arches. Leave the cycling path in Filisur, cross the street and ride straight into the Landwasser valley to see the famous Rhaetian Railway bridge with its impressive (and elegant) stone pillars rising 65m high. Every day, they carry 60 Albula trains that cross the 136m viaduct before disappearing in a 216m long tunnel in the rock.
Back at the Albula river, it is still easy pedaling. There hasn’t been much climbing yet, today… At Surava, near the Crap Furo (Rhaeto-Romanic for «pierced rock head») you are almost at the geograpic center of Graubünden. Shortly after, you take the road for about one kilometer before turning right on a gravel road. Now, it is time to climb up the sunny side of the Valbula valley in serpentines all the way to Brienz.
The small village of Brienz became world-famous in 2023 when the 85 residents had to be evacuated over concerns of an imminent massive landslide. The village sits at the foot of a mountain that has been shifting since the last ice age. 1.2 million cubic meters of debris thundered down into the valley covering the street yet stopped short before the village to spare it from destruction. This stage of the GBT runs right by the giant landslide.
Next after Brienz is Lantsch and the Roland Arena, one of Switzerland’s major training facilities for elite athletes. Please note: stay on the gravel road, the paved roads are reserved for the biathletes on roller skis... Today’s destination, Lenzerheide, may not be far, but we are setting out on a beautiful extra loop through the woods to the overlook Crap la Tretscha which grants a spectacular view on what we have been cycling today: the valleys of Landwasser and Albula. The finish is truly Bike Kingdom worthy: the fun and flowy St. Cassian singletrack takes us towards the center of Lenzerheide.
Find the Biohof La Sorts right at the junction to the Landwasser viaduct. The alpine potato of Marcel and Sabina Heinrich Tschalèr is so popular with top chefs that it is rarely found in the farm store. But you can buy many other local specialties that you won’t get in any supermarket.
On 1,796m, high above Lenzerheide, former alpine ski pro Silvano Beltrametti and his wife serve fantastic cuisine in their restaurant Tgantieni – with a view on Lenzerhorn, Mitgel, Tinzenhorn and Piz Ela.
The Bike Kingdom is the largest connected MTB area in Switzerland. The network of 50 trails and 12 railways stretches across Lenzerheide, Arosa and Chur and unites two bike parks.
Nino Schurter stems from Graubünden and crowned himself GOAT (Greatest Of All Time) in 2023 at a race in his home kingdom Lenzerheide, With his 34th world cup victory, the Cross Country mountain biker set a new record.
The Landwasser viaduct was designer by Alexander Acatos, who was born in Greece. He emigrated to Switzerland as a student and worked for the Rhaetian Railway from 1898 to 1903. The three main pillars (there are five in total) are a rather unusual construction: due to the threat of flooding, they were not built with the aid of exterior scaffolding but with iron support towers inside the pillars, which were then walled in. When in 2009 the pillars were carefully restored and reinforced (during day and night), they showed to be in top condition even after a century in use.
The village of Brienz, located at an altitude of about 1,150m, made headlines in 2023. The terrace on which it sets has been shifting since the ice age but has accelerated over the past decades. And since 1877, the mountains towering behind the village have been unstable as well. When in May 2023 the rock looming overhead was imminent to break loose, the 85 residents were evacuated. In June 1,2 million cubic meters of debris moved up to 40m / day, and on 16th of June the rockslide reached the valley, covering the street, yet sparing the village. Two weeks later, the residents could move back into their houses.
The Schweizerhof is one of the oldest hotels in Lenzerheide – and one of the most progressive when it comes to social and environmental ambitions. The team is dedicated to save resources, source regional produce and reward guests that arrive without a car (e.g. cyclists…).
You can find more accommodation in the region here.
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