Stage 5: Bonaduz - Ilanz

Unlike yesterday's stage the 5^th section of the Glacier Bike Tour starts with a relaxed and easy flat stretch through a scenic forest alongside the anterior Rhine and the railroad tracks. There is a brief, steep uphill (shift and turbo!) that finally takes you on the road to Versam and before entering the valley of Safien you cross the old bridge over the Versamer gorge. Hold your breath, the views are jaw-dropping – especially at the viewpoint Zault where the immensity of the Rhine gorge shows in its entirety.  

About 9,500 years ago the giant rockslide of Flims (one of the world’s largest) covered the Rhine with 11km³ of debris – which dammed the river and create a lake that stretched over 25km. The water cut deeper and deeper into the rock over time and once the lake drained, it left the Rhine gorge with its white rock face towering 300m high.

The next mandatory stop: the pretty village of Valendas with its patrician houses and 8m-long fountain, the largest historic wooden fountain in Europe. Take a seat on the restaurant’s terrace and enjoy coffee and cake. It’s a special place, the heart of the village – café, bar and gourmet restaurant all in one. Chef Matthias Althof has been awarded several Gault Millau points and specializes on regional and seasonal dishes. The historic building was carefully renovated and redesigned by Graubünden architect Gion A. Caminada. You get even closer to his home region next... 

In any case, it’s no mistake to fuel yourself and your batteries as from Valendas on the route climbs continuously from 800m up to 1,600m (there is a public charging station right in Valendas). In the meantime, you cannot stop for a bite, but also take a 2km walk to the wooden viewing platform Alix designed by engineer Jürg Conzett. 

The Surselva is the largest Romansh-speaking region in Graubünden, but the route runs "on the Walser side" winding through remote slopes and alpine meadows shaped by the German-speaking Walser community. The hilly alpine landscape with its soft, lush green colours stands in stark contrast to the white rocks of the Rhine Gorge opposite. 

Finally, the scenery unfolds to reveal Val Lumnezia, the expansive side valley nestled within Surselva and the home of both Gion A. Camanada and mountain bike star Nino Schurter. He grew up in the tiny village of Tersnaus - just like another top bike athlete: Vital Albin. After Ober Dutjen, the route switches back to the Romansh language region and descends via Riein and Sevgein to Ilanz. 

On the way to Riein turn left at Galogn/Muntschalls on the trail 259. It’s a narrow, beautiful track through the forest and across meadows – however, if you have a lot of luggage with you or you feel safer on asphalt, simply continue along the road. 

Ilanz is the first town on the Rhine and is considered the "gateway to the Rhine Gorge". It lies in a wide, fertile hollow – once the bottom of the lake dammed up by the landslide. You can take a nice stroll through the pretty old town, which is just being revitalized by the locals. Sights to see include the Obertor, Casa Gronda and Casa Carniec, which is home to the Regiunal Surselva Folklore Museum. 

• The Gasthaus am Brunnen in Valendas offers top cuisine for both the locals and gourmet connoisseurs. Closed Mondays to Wednesdays. As an alternative (Mondays & Tuesdays) you will find the wonderful Café Mäntig in the garden of Nina Buchli. 

• There are several self-service farm stores in Valendas and at the Curschetta organic farm in Sevgein, where the Cadalbert family has set up a nice bench – grab a homemade ice-cream and enjoy.

• You will pass Europe’s biggest wooden fountain in Valendas. 

• The rockslide of Flims is the largest known runout landslides in Europe. 

• The Surselva is the largest Romansh speaking district. 

The villages of Flims, Laax and Falera are located on a sunny plateau that was created by the massive debris flow of the Flims landslide: about 12 to 13 Matterhorns tumbled into the valley and buried the Rhine. The river dammed up to form a lake, The water cut through the smashed debris to eventually form the Rhine Gorge with its towering white limestone walls and the beautiful Prau Pulté, Tuleritg, Cauma and Cresta lakes. 

The wooden fountain, the landmark of Valendas, was built in 1760. At the beginning of the 20^th century, the residents still fetched their water and washed their laundry here. To this day, it remains the heart of the village – and is guarded by a mermaid. 

The Hotel Eden might not be a historic building, its highest rooms in Ilanz boast incredible views of the Rhine and the mountain peaks of the Surselva.

You can find more accommodation in the region here.