Thusis - Sarn - Alp Sut - Bonaduz
32.9 km, 1200 m ↗, 1240 m
On this stage we see the Anterior Rhine first merge with the Albula and later with the Posterior Rhine, while we ride from the valley filled with castles and orchards up on the expansive spine of a mountain range that stretches all the way to a quaint alpine hut and Bonaduz.
It is a quick farewell to Thusis, the Anterior Rhine and the Viamala as the Glacier Bike Tour’s 4th stage starts with a (moderate) climb up the Heinzenberg. Gaining elevation means gaining mesmerizing vistas views. The quietness, the tranquil pedaling and the view are perfect for reviewing the tour thus far. It’s a fantastic sight when you look back on the Albula river, the Schin gorge and the mountain flanks in Brienz.
While down in the valley you see the vast and beautiful Domleschg stretching over 10km from Thusis to Rothenbrunnen. With its strategically important location along the old transport routes, it is one of the most castle-dense valleys in Switzerland. From high up here, you can try to count them – Castle Paspels, for example, or the Castles of Ortenstein. In 1621, Rietberg Castle (which is in summertime populated by hundreds of bats) was the site of the murder of Pompeius Planta (the leader of the Catholic fraction) by Jürg Jenatsch (one of the most striking figures during the Thirty Years’ War) with an axe – allegedly he was himself killed with the same axe.
Yet, the picturesque villages along our ride are also alluring. In Flerden and in Sarn you find small farm shops and wells, where you can refill your water bottles. After taking in the panorama, you enter the forest which soon again opens up to the most spectacular view of Chur, Reichenau and Bonaduz. Straight ahead to the north you can see the impressive Flims landslide and the UNESCO World Heritage Site Sardona with the Tschingelhörner peaks, while to the east lies the next Glacier Bike Tour stage, the Surselva, and, in the far distance, the Oberalpstock.
Only a few turns from here, and you have reached the rustic Alpbeizli il Bot, where you can enjoy the most delicious cake or cheese specialties. And the extra weight comes in just handy, as it is all downhill from here straight to the sunny Bonaduz at the end of the Rhine Gorge. It really is a must to hike down to the sandy beaches at the union of Anterior und Posterior Rhine in Reichenau and/or to visit Switzerland’s oldest town: Chur. About 90 kilometers to the north, the Alpine Rhine flows into Lake Constance. On the next Glacier Bike Tour stage though, we will turn the other direction heading towards the source of the Rhine…
The charming Alpbeizli il Bot is a traditional hut where they serve homemade specialties.
In the beautiful Castle Reichenau you can purchase wine and asparagus from their own production.
The Domleschg is the region with the highest density of castles in Graubünden.
The Alpine Rhine is the most important inlet of Lake Constance, contributing two thirds of its water.
You can find 16 castles in the 10km long Domleschg – partly built as private residences, partly by the bishopric Chur.
Swiss author C. F. Meyer was inspired by the Domleschg castles on his return from the Engadine. He spent a few nights in Rietberg Castle and then wrote the novel «Jürg Jenatsch» about the infamous murder of Pompejus Planta. Allegedly, the castle ruin of Hohen Rätien towering above the Viamala gorge served as model for the setting of his novella «The Judge».
In the 14th century, two bridges and a customs house were erected in Reichenau - one crossing the Anterior Rhine, the other the Alpine Rhine. Thus, all the traffic was easy to oversee and control at this vital junction.
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