Stage 3: Lenzerheide - Thusis

Before enjoying a descent of 1.400m, we climb high up to enjoy an all-encompassing view on the Bündner mountains: from the Lenzerhorn to the Piz Julier. We pedal past the Heid lake up the flanks of Piz Danis to a height of almost 2,000m, before rolling back down on Piz Scalottas. 

Coming down from Crap la Pala, we roll through quaint villages. Stop in Lain to visit the small church of St. Luzi: the Carolingian ring crypt and the three-nave late Romanesque high choir are unique in Switzerland. 

Then, we swap asphalt for gravel and the adventure begins on the Old Schyn, an ancient mule track running along the steep flanks of the mountains. «Der Alte Schin» Back in the days, it used to be a key (and extremely challenging) connection between the northern part of Graubünden and the Engadin. Today, it is still spectacular, yet  rideable.  

You need solid riding skills and experience for the Schin. Although it is not chunky, there are short, steep uphills, rocks and roots as well as a few tighter corners on the descent.  

The narrow Schin track is carved into the rock with the steep wall to the right and the steep plunge to the left. The view extends into the Schin Gorge with the rushing Albula river and the Solis viaduct, Switzerland's third highest bridge. The solitary route leads through the natural forest reserve, where interventions have been deliberately avoided. Another highlight is the 100m long rock tunnel lit by solar power. 

We’re back in civilization in Scharans, where we are greeted by a red-colored concrete house decorated with 150 rosettes - it was built by Valerio Olgiati for the singer-songwriter and author Linard Bardill. Just a bit further, we can see Switzerland’s oldest lime tree at the church square: the (by now hollow) tree is 800 years old. 

Coming from alpine Lenzerheide, Scharans holds quite a change of scenery. The charming, sun-kissed Domleschg lies 1,400m lower and is known as the “orchard of Graubünden". The climate is mild, the land fertile. It yields a diverse range of produce, including 120 varieties of apples, 30 varieties of pears - and the Domleschg has also resumed its winemaking tradition. 

Othmar Caviezel even harvest Safran here and Andreas Caminada apricots and pears. The celebrity chef has made his culinary dream come true with Castle Schauenstein and the Casa Caminada in Fürstenau, the world’s smallest town. Besides Castle Schauenstein (3 Michelin stars, 19 Gault Millau points) and the vegetarian restaurant, you find a bakery, a roastery and a café. So do stop for coffee and cake at Switzerland’s most successful chef. You may take your time as Thusis, our final destination for today, is not far. 

Only a few kilometers ride behind Fürstenau, the Albula joins the Anterior Rhine. On the next stage, we will see the Anterior Rhine merge with the Posterior Rhine. But for now, we will enjoy Thusis which was one of the most important transit town in the Middle Ages. From here, you cross San-Bernardino and the Splügen pass, or travel over the Julier pass to the Upper Engadin and further on to Italy via the Maloja pass. 

For those of you who cannot get enough: practice your biking skills (or just enjoy the ride) in the free Trail Center Thusis with its five lines and two loops for all levels. Right next to it, you find the swimming pool of Thusis. Or you visit the impressive Viamala gorge. 

• Bakery, roastery, vegetarian restaurant - in the world’s smallest town (population 350), Andreas Caminada offers more than just Michelin-starred cuisine.  

• Story Thusis is a sports workshop, lodge, co-working space, meeting point and bar all in one. 

• The Berggasthaus Beverin is located on the Glaspass above Thusis. 

• Switzerland’s oldest lime tree has grown on the churchyard in Scharans for 800 years. 

• Fürstenau ist the world’s smallest town.  

• At the age of 33, Andreas Caminada became the youngest three-star chef in Europe. 

Thusis is located at the entrance to the Viamala gorge, the biggest of its kind in Graubünden. Despite its tight narrowness between the rock walls that tower up to 300m, the Via Mala - the bad road - was a key route to the Splügen and San Bernardino passes. Thusis was therefore an important stop on the trade routes - until the San Bernardino Tunnel was opened in 1967. It was Switzerland's first national road tunnel through the Alps. Today, the Albula line (part of the UNESCO World Heritage Rhaetian Railway) departs from Thusis to St. Moritz. 

Fürstenau was granted town privileges from King Charles IV. On 13 May 1354, he presented Bishop Ulrich of Chur with a diploma certifying Fürstenau's right to dungeon, cane and gallows and to hold two fairs. This was the legal town charter and Fürstenau still holds it today. 

The 3-star Hotel Weiss Kreuz in Thusis is an institution with a long tradition. The place is run by the sixth generation and has just celebrated its 175th anniversary. 

You can find more accommodation in the region here.